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Sicilian pastry sweets

Sicilian pastry sweets

Entering a Sicilian pastry shop means entering a world of smells, flavours, colours and traditions handed down from generation to generation. A spectacle to be admired with the eyes and savoured with the palate. In addition to the pleasure of the senses, it should also be remembered that almost all Sicilian pastry sweets are closely linked to a festivity, and behind each one hides a story that is often rather uncertain, halfway between reality and fantasy, between myth and legend. In many articles on this blog I have tried to tell you about the origins of certain sweets: not always an easy task when it comes to tracing the origins of something that has been handed down orally for a long time. The only thing that is certain, however, is that the forerunners of modern Sicilian confectionery were the cloistered convents.


The preparation of sweets in convents

Nucatoli From the 15th to the 19th century, in fact, to buy a tray of sweets to put on the table at Sunday lunch or on some important occasion, one did not go to a pastry shop, but to a convent. As the years went by, the nuns of the convents became more and more skilled in the preparation of sweet delicacies, so much so that they became famous. But how did it come to this?


Let's start by recalling that life inside a cloistered convent could not have been easy at all. A life made up of privations, prayers, silence, isolation, and strict rules: far from their loved ones, who could be seen only rarely and through thick iron grates, and from the comforts they were used to before embarking on this path, the nuns faced this lifestyle with not a few difficulties. If we then consider that it was not always a spontaneous choice but an imposition by the family, this contributes to making this lifestyle even harder.


It was the noblest families that directed their youngest daughters to the monastic life. There were two winners: the family, who saved the dowry they would have to give their daughter if she married a noble man; the convent, which received funding from these same noble families. It was obviously the poor girls who lost out!


However, the money bestowed by the noble families was not always enough to maintain a high standard of living within the convents. That is why the nuns started to bake cakes, which on the one hand served to earn money, and on the other kept them busy with activities far more attractive than prayer and silence. Some of these nuns often also brought some of their servants with them to the convent, and consequently some of their culinary knowledge, which undoubtedly helped a lot in the later preparation of the sweets.


Olives-of-SantAgata. Each convent specialised in the preparation of a cake. The monastery of S. Maria di Monte Oliveto, also known as the Badia Nuova, specialised in the preparation of cannoli (it is said that they were invented here as a carnival joke); the monastery of the Martorana specialised in the preparation of martorana fruit, which was invented here; the monastery of Valverde specialised in the preparation of cassata al forno (baked cassata); the monastery of the Vergini specialised in the preparation of minni di vergini and trionfo di gola (a little-known sweet that was also mentioned in The Leopard).


The nuns sold their sweets served on a wheel that carried the items outside without people being able to see them.


The secrets of the cloister


Maria-Stuarda. Today sweets are no longer bought in convents. Today sweets are bought in bakeries with large shop windows; today sweets are no longer prepared in an artisanal way with recipes handed down orally, but with recipe books resulting from precise studies; today sweets are not just a luxury for the noblest families, but are within everyone's reach. A radical change that certainly makes everything much more accessible, but which somewhat detracts from the more romantic aspect of the history of Sicilian confectionery.

Cassata al forno: the ancestor of the modern Sicilian cassata, typical of the Valverde Monastery

Cassata fridda: cassata decorated with icing and candied fruit, called 'fridda' because the ingredients were assembled without being baked, typical of the Monastery of Santa Teresa

Cannoli

Nucatoli: filled biscuits typical of the Monastery of Saint Elizabeth

Maria Stuarda: shortbread tart with cucuzzata

Martorana fruit

Pantofole: sweets filled with almonds, typical of the Sette Angeli Monastery

Testa di turco: fried pastry filled and covered with blancmange

Trionfo di gola: a dessert with many layers, typical of the Monastero delle Vergini and Monastero di Santa Caterina and many more


The sweet shop is located in Piazza Bellini 33 Palermo, and is open daily from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. (during the summer period, opening is extended until 7 p.m.). For more detailed information on the history and recipes of the nuns, I recommend reading the book I segreti del chiostro.

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